KG1 Forged Wheels: Dually & Lifted-Truck Design, Fitment and a Custom Alternative

Quick answer: 2017-and-newer Ford Super Duty duallies use an 8x200 mm bolt pattern and GM 3500 duallies use 8x210 mm. Dually front and rear wheels need different offsets, and every wheel must carry a load rating that matches the axle.

If you're searching KG1 forged wheels, you're almost certainly one of two very different truck owners: someone running a one-ton dually who needs an 8-lug wheel that can actually carry the load, or someone building a lifted single-rear-wheel truck who wants a 24x14 or 26x16 with the deep dish poking out past the fenders. Those are opposite engineering problems, and the reason a real factory matters is that the wheel that looks right in both cases has to be forged to survive the loads. This is written from our shop floor — here's what actually defines the style, where the fitment goes sideways, and how to get a set cut to your exact truck instead of hoping a catalog size clears.

Two Trucks, Two Completely Different Wheels

The dually build is about capacity first, looks second. A Ford F-350/F-450 or GM 3500 hauls and tows near its rated ceiling, so the wheel's load rating and the front-versus-rear offset are non-negotiable. The lifted SRW build flips it: a 24x14 or 26x16 with an aggressive negative offset is chasing stance, so the questions become poke, backspacing, and whether the tire will rub at full lock. A "kg1 forged dually wheels" set and a 26x14 lifted-truck set share a look and a bolt count, but almost nothing about the offset math is the same. Getting the two confused is the most common mistake we see.

Dually Fitment: The 8-Lug Details That Bite

Modern Ford Super Duty duallies (2017 and up) run an 8x200mm bolt pattern; GM 3500 duallies run 8x210mm; older Ford and Ram platforms use different patterns entirely. That alone means an 8-lug wheel is never universal — the pattern has to match your exact year and model, and duallies are hub-centric, so the center bore matters as much as the bolt circle. Then there's the front/rear split: a dually front wheel and rear wheel are not interchangeable, because the rears mount as a pair back-to-back and need the correct offset so the two tires sit at the right spacing without the sidewalls touching. Run the wrong rear offset and your tires either rub each other or stick out past the fender. On a truck this heavy, load rating is the line you never cross — a wheel has to be rated for the axle, full stop. Because so much rides on getting these numbers exact, we verify PCD, center bore, and load rating against your real truck before anything is cut. Our one-piece forged range is where most dually sets start.

Lifted SRW Builds: Diameter, Width and the Offset Gamble

The lifted single-wheel look lives on width and negative offset. A 22x12, 24x12, or 24x14 in kg1 forged rims style pushes the wheel face way out — a 24x14 typically lands around a -76mm offset, which is what throws the dish out past the fender line. That poke is the whole point, but it's also where builds fail: too much negative offset and you get tire rub at full steering lock, added stress on wheel bearings, and a rubbing fender liner over bumps. Go bigger still — a 26x14 or 26x16 — and tire choice, backspacing, and fender clearance all get tighter at once. There's no single "right" answer here; it depends on your lift height, tire size, and how much trimming you're willing to do. What we won't do is sell you a spec that rubs. Tell us the lift, the tire, and the truck, and we'll tell you honestly what width and offset actually work.

Why Forged Isn't Optional on a One-Ton

This is the part that separates a real wheel from a good-looking one. A one-ton truck puts loads through the wheel that a cast blank simply isn't the ideal tool for at these diameters and widths. We forge from aerospace-grade 6061-T6 aluminum billet under a 10,000-ton press, which compresses the grain structure so the finished wheel resists fatigue far better than cast — exactly what you want under a loaded dually or a 26-inch lifted setup. From there it's CNC turning and multi-axis milling to cut your face, dish, and lip, an automated dust-free coating line for the finish, then load-rated QC. When you're carrying weight or running big diameters, forged isn't a bragging point — it's the reason the wheel holds up.

Building KG1 Forged Wheels-Style Sets to Spec

Here's the factory-direct difference. Diameter, width, bolt pattern, offset, and finish are all variables we set on the machine — not a fixed catalog part we resell with a markup. That's why the KG1 forged wheels look you're after doesn't have to be an off-the-shelf compromise: if your dually needs a specific rear offset, or your lifted truck needs a 24x14 at a width the catalog doesn't list, we cut it. Duallies, lifted trucks, and heavy-duty haulers all run through the same in-house line — forging, machining, finishing, QC, and packing under one roof, nothing outsourced. Shops that resell to truck owners order from us directly, and our off-road forged line and two-piece program cover the widest custom fitments.

What to Nail Down Before You Order

For a dually: exact year and model, and whether you need a matched front/rear set — that fixes your bolt pattern, center bore, and offsets. For a lifted SRW truck: lift height and target tire size, so the width and offset get chosen to clear instead of to rub. Then finish. If you've been pricing KG1 forged wheels and want the same forged, load-rated build cut to your truck's real numbers, the honest next step is a fitment check, not a guess. Contact us for a factory-direct quote with your truck details and we'll confirm exactly what fits before we make it.

Written by Emma, ANKUSI Forged Wheels. ANKUSI is a forged wheel manufacturer in Guangzhou, China, certified to IATF 16949 and ISO 9001. Bolt pattern and center bore figures are verified against at least two independent sources before publication. Found a mistake? Email info@ankusi.com.